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By Mahek | Published on May 29, 2025

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Life_Style / May 29, 2025

Why This Humble Snack Is The Beating Heart of Mumbai

The melt-in-the-mouth delicacy doesn't scream for attention, it becomes unforgettable after you taste it.

     In the busy and overly crowded city of Mumbai, amid the honking taxis, sea breeze, colonial buildings, and the web of local trains, lies a tradition that has comforted generations – the simple joy of bun maska and chai. This classic combination is a specialty of Irani café across the maximum city. It is more than a snack; it is a cultural ritual, a symbol of camaraderie, nostalgia and much more. Though, the desi version of Vada Pao rules the city as a humble snack, bun maska is nothing less of a soul, especially in rainy season and Bhumi Pednekar has sparked this craving for this humble snack with her Instagram post that reads, "Bun maska and chai gets me high ."

A Tale of the Taste:

Bun maska is a soft, slightly sweet milk bun sliced and slathered with a generous amount of butter. This butter is sometimes fresh, sometimes, the regular butter we get in the market. Usually it is served warm with a cup of strong, sweet, spiced chai. It is filling, affordable, and satisfying, a perfect breakfast or an evening break. "It's not just a snack, it's an emotion. Vada pao and Bun Muska are life of any Mumbaikar. We used to go to Irani café in the town in a group and sit there for hours during college days. I don't get to eat this now but whenever I am in Mumbai, I make sure I visit the same place at anytime of the day or night," says Sakshi Jain, a psychologist in Pune.

The story of bun maska (buttered bun) paired with chai (tea) comes from Irani café. Established in the early 20th century by Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran, these cafes have become democratic spaces where people from all walks of life gather for affordable meals and endless conversations. If you head to any Irani café in your city, you will spot diversity where students, office-goers, artists, thinkers, or even a taxi driver savouring this delightful snack. Unlike high-end restaurants, the Irani café was and is inclusive. With wooden chairs, marble-top tables, glass jars or biscuits, and no-nonsense waiters make this place a welcoming space for everyone.

Simplicity Meets Comfort:

For the imagery, it is the ritual of dipping the bun in tea, chit chatting with friends while you watch people from the street-facing tables. "It's a soulful experience. It's emotion and just the name of it makes your day," says Sardana.

People say that there's a poetry in bun maska and chai. The melt-in-the-mouth delicacy doesn't scream for attention, it becomes unforgettable after you taste it. Savouring bun maska is also about slowing down in the fast-moving city. "You are constantly running but when you sit for bun maska, you slow down. It's a pause between chaos of work and travel," says Nidhi Sardana, a lawyer by profession.

Nostalgia On a Plate:

If you are visiting a high-end café, the bun maska may come with artisanal butter, and the chai might be infused with lemongrass or saffron. But purists know that the true essence lies in its original form – served with no frills, no fuss, just warmth and nostalgia. "It's a bonding food. You eat not to savour it but to make relations and talk. I do eat bun maska at upscale cafes for old time sake, but that's not what it used to be. Bun maska and chai is a feeling and that doesn't need anything added to it to make it suitable to the place. It belongs to people's hearts and the taste is unforgettable for those who have eaten it often during their college days," says Ruchi Jha, an architect in Mumbai.

While this humble duo is still the heart of the city, things are changing in the last few years. Today, the number of Irani cafes is dwindling. From hundreds in their heyday, only a few dozen remain operational. Each of these have loyal customer base and old-world charm. Neither the owners want to change it nor their customers want to experience anything different but the same old vibe. Modern cafes and global coffee chains have replaced many of them, especially with millennials and Gen Z. Yet, the magic of bun maska is thriving, if not at Irani cafes, at hipster cafes, roadside tapris (tea stalls), at fancy restaurants or Instagram reels.

Cafes Change but Comfort Remains:

For many, bun maska and chai combo is a reminder of college days, early morning trains, late-night chats, or just a solitary reflections by a window. They are an emblem of Mumbai's cosmopolitan spirit where Persian influence meets Indian palate, where old meets new, and food becomes a bridge between people. Additionally, bun maska is also a delightful reminder of simplicity amid the complicated recipes and fusion, experimental, or progressive foods. "I take it as a learning that comfort doesn't mean everything has to be elaborate. It can come with bun muska and chai, simple, delicious, and so comforting!" says Divya Bhatia, a lawyer.

So, the next time you are in Mumbai or find yourself near an Irani café, take a moment and pause. Head inside this old café, order a bun maska and a cup of chai. Sit back, take a bite, and sip your chai slowly. Look out of the window and feel the warmth of this humble snack while you embrace the piece of the city's heart.

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